Zanzibar

October 10 - 18, 2006

Jambo, Mamma"

This is the very friendly African greeting adressed to every woman. And how I admire them: each one a Queen of Sabaa with her earnest and gracious stride. Some of them tall and slim other of a baroque largess, but all of them beautiful and self-assured.

"Pole,pole"

The boatman requests me to be careful: "Slowly, slowly". I have to wade through water up to my hips in order to get onto the small Chumbe Island. If there is an earthly paradise, this is it: Eco-tourism combined with acceptable working conditions for the locals. All the bungalows follow the strictest eco-standards beginning with the purely natural building materials, over to the collection of rain water, composting toilets, solarpower and no drop of pollution leaking into the nearby reef. The reef is so high, that it can be easily seen while snorkeling with all its beautiful fish and corals. One can also walk in the forest-reserve and catch a glimpse of the tree-climbing crabs (yes, I did see it!) As a special treat - why do I always get the special treats? - I was invited to sail on a local outrigger-boat. There is also an old light-house on the island that we could climb. All in all a lovely stay.

Now I'm in Zanzibar Stone Town, which I have visited a good decade ago. Stone Town is a World Heritage Site, so it hasn't changed much, but the local tourism industry has, and some features I find rather difficlt to bear. On the other hand also I get really cross with my Western Collegues who blatantly offend the local Muslim society. Tonight I will have dinner with a lovely Muslim girl who is staff on Chumbe Island and who was impressed that I knew Muslim rules and faith so well. At the moment they observe Ramadan - which means no food or drink during all daylight - and yet most graciously they serve food and drinks to us unbelievers! Another ranger on the Island filled me in in the most friendly manner into some more details of the Muslim way of life. Again I was touched how grateful people are if they get some real deep felt interest into their ways of thinking and behaviour. And I met most thoughtful and earnest people who cherish their own ambitions and dreams.

In this spirit I wish all of you that your dreams and hopes will be fulfilled. Mine certainly were with this long and rewarding trip.

View from the hotel

A small visitor in the bathroom  in Ras Kutani